Project Push

On week further since the last update, but project wise suddenly we're much further.
It was badly needed though; several proceedings stopped or were canceled.

There have been negotiations with a TV channel, specifically focused on Everest news, to make an appealing documentary to broadcast the piece to at least 15 countries. Potentially very interesting of course for both parties... However the negotiations finally collapsed on (what's new) money. During the project a lot of parties, organizations, NGOs and individuals were positive after being consulted to sponsor. Some became very inspired and excited to cooperate or even had approached the team themselves to get involved. However, when it comes to payments, it's peoples nature to become less and less enthousiatic, like the exciting thrill is suddenly gone. We've seen and still experience this most of the time and start to get used to it. Nothing is final, up to the first paisas, unfortunately!

The coming 72hours will be very important for the breakthrough of this Clean up Expedition Project.
The project have been waiting for a very long time to get support from the Ministery of Tourism; a major prerequisit for the main sponsors to secure their support. Quite a struggle! Although always to be expected, it still surprising how much urge for power and individual visibility is involved, even in these kind of charity programs (or maybe better to say especially!). Anyway, although not completely confirmed, the Ministery has agreed to proceed in their support (yes, step by step, little by little; it tests your patience ;-) ).

Anyway, the main sponsors have now agreed to start their first payments these days. Excellent news, since many equipment and services for which deposits were paid, can now be finally collected/arranged and paid off. It enables the team to send the first 1000kg to Lukla already early this week.
At this moment we are waiting with 4 persons to fly to Lukla, to secure the first arrangements. Have been hanging around unsuccessfully at the national airport already the entire day yesterday, and continue hoping, reading, even more reading today. Hope to bring you the next news for a higher altitude!

Also upcoming is the press conference for this Clean up initiative. Already scheduled for weeks before, but now ready for the Big Bang... To be expected Tuesday; stay connected!

Everything packed for Everest!

Just ended our big packing and checking morning.

I'm still puzzled how an empty kitbag can seem so huge, while packing your belongings it seems to become smaller and smaller :-(

 

The sleeping bag which should keep me warm till -49C took already one third of the space! Can't tell you how often I got a reaction these days of people (Nepali as well as Western) who were completely horrified and flabbergasted; they can't even name a single reason why you would go up to stay in this cold voluntary and actually also have to pay money for that...

Also in the bag are ordinary stuff like climbing gear, climbing boots, several down clothes, special socks, 2 mattresses, sunblock factor 80(!), Thermos and covers for that, face mask, 3 pair of gloves, 3 pair of sunglasses for all different purposes (yes... horrible, normally I never wear any!) etcetcetc.

 

I must admit that I also bought myself some luxury items, but I call them 'absolute required luxury' ;-) I'll give you some...

First of all; chocolate! Candy bars, tablets and Nutella as well. About the quantity of this black gold; if I have to count it in monthly Nepali salaries I'm getting a little embarrassed here ;-)

Also a 'must have' is a pair of warm booties to stay warm in the rocky BC and to avoid scratching the expensive and somehow fragile climbing boots completely open before you have even started your climb! My favourites for this cold environment are boots from Canada; people there are so used to live in extreme cold half of the year that I totally rely on their designs and trials!

Next are a few books to fill the acclimatising and rest days in the BC (actually every extra gram which is not reserved for equipment can you see as 'luxury item'), tasty tea (Moroccan mint, yummie) and not to forget some Kenzo perfumed body lotion; the environment is barren enough already :-)

Last but not least, some flyer material for the Climbing for Water Foundation. Didn't check our upcoming activities yet??? Please do at http://www.climbingforwater.org and/or http://climbingforwater.blogspot.com

 

Not sure if the yak who will devotedly transport all my stuff to the BC must be happy or not, but at least it will get a hug from me, as well as a delicious snack (besides grass, what's a Yak's favourite candy...anyone???).

 

CU tomorrow. X

Nepal against China…

Correct, it's all about Mt Everest, laying at the border of Nepal and Tibet. And since Tibet has been 'mastered' by China... at the border of China as well. The discussion is all about the height of this giant, goddess and gold mine as well.

China exclaiming the height of 8844.43m, Nepal the familiair height of 8848m. Now you're probably curious; where does this difference come from? Do they use other kind of measurement euipment, inaccurate or different calibration methods or what???!

Quite simple; China is measuring the rock height, while Nepal is targeting at rock + snow height!

The question remains.... Who is right here...? You tell me...  At least both countries now accepted eachothers measurements and vision. However, they still didn't come to an agreement which height will be adopted by both of them. That will probably take another 10 years, or more ;-) !!!

  - Adopted from the Kathmandu Post, April 8th 2010

A struggle for power and money…

Time goes fast when you’re having fun… and fun it is! It’s just great to see the scene behind the curtains of this project. There’s laughter, shouting, crying, frustration and happiness, but above all, it’s a lot of hard work!

Anyway, let’s give you an update.

As you know, this project is a Nepali initiative. Beside us (reporters), there are no foreigners involved. It’s also a non-commercial project, so beside some very low earnings for hard work and huge risks, this team of Sherpa’s is not earning money from it. Everything is funded by Nepali companies, private money as to say. Beside a free permit from the government (hopefully), no government money is involved. So, basically, this is a project by the people and for the people. And you know what? That’s just not good enough! Oh no! Something very important is missing: politics! Like most projects that create a lot of positive media attention, there must be a struggle or fight (behind screens) about power. Who will be the one who gets the credits… Will it be the Sherpa team itself? The sponsors? The government, or are there more parties involved. To be honest, yes there are, although we hardly know who they are and what they really want. One thing is clear, there are powerful people who use their strength to make things difficult. These people will avoid the spotlights, but will do everything to destroy or to receive credits. Politics, power, money… it’s war, with powerful, but invisible and scared people.

Beside the politicians, there are the parasites. Yep, like always . Let’s have a better look at somebody who has setup a really nice project to inspire children by fulfilling his own dream, climbing the seven summits. It actually works these days… Put the word ‘Children’ in a mission statement and a whole row of rich companies nervously scream to sponsor such a great initiative. Children are great advertising, much better than a green environment or reduction of CO2. We do it for the children! Ok, the point is, that parasites always try to make use of another. They need the other to survive. And when it’s about survival, there are no restrictions, there’s no shame, no values. As long as you get what you want, that’s all that counts. So that’s why this Swiss person, who goes from top to top, used this project to have his permit fee waived, off course without any agreement, approval and acknowledgement. Nice smiling and talking at the front side, cheating at the back side. Parasites are always a pain in the ass…

Ok, enough about the negative side, there’s also positive news: the preparations have almost finished and the first loads of equipment are on its way to base camp. Hopefully the government and sponsors keep their word and deliver what they promised, then everything will be fine. Then another stage will start, the fight at the mountain itself…

Cu later!

Base camp blues…

During our first day we started to prepare the rest of the camp together: hammering ice to create ‘flat’ camp spots, shoveling rock screw, collecting big stones to build tables, ‘sofas’ etcetc. During the night we felt that the flat camp areas could have needed some more perfectionism, feeling like lying on an Auping bed that has been lifted at both extremities simultaneously, or just only in the middle (both not comfortable I can tell you). That mixed with the fact that you7r fundament (glacial ice) is cracking like hell it always takes some nights before you can say “I slept” (leave alone the superstitious ‘well’).

Anyway! We also started to practice to get used to the many ladders we’ll need to cross in the Icefall. Some close contacts with the ‘Icefall Doctors’ (Sherpas preparing the Icefall route) resulted in a private ladder in our camp; a real eye catcher for peasants it seemed.

And further…. Wait…. The consulted Lamas proclaimed that our Puja (the spiritual kick off of an expedition from the BC) had to wait for 9 more days. And without Puja, no Icefall entry… Ohhh gosh, then the days get long, and cold L With a daily window of ca 2h without snow and/or wind you have to get very creative how to spend your day, stay warm and cheerful. Nicknames for each other were soon created, play cards were fully booked and dull books became real page turners. And the strange thing is; you become SO tired, extremely tired! The event of the day was always the arrival of more load; grabbing porters out of the snow to dribnk a cup of tea with and tear the stuff from their backs, curiously like opening your Xmas box of food items.

In no time we could extend our camp with more tents, mountains of personal kitbags of all climbers, more food and… a generator! Powerrrrrrrr!!! We soon discovered that the required petrol was not there yet to run that Ferrari-red engine, as well as no laptop and light bulbs for which that machine was actually bought. It felt like a nice wrapping paper covering an empty present L

Actually, we’ve had some major Cargo challenges due to bad weather. Some loads had therefore be to be walked in from Jiri, another 7 days away, causing supplying delays. Amongst it; oxygen (maybe that’s what the Lamas must have been feeling!).

And then… I became sick…  Not AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), no diarrhea, no… an ordinary sinusitis (very painful at altitude). And the horribly morbide thing is… also our medicines were still on the way. Since your body doesn’t recuperate well at that altitude (it’s all about prevention; passed station) AND the Puja was still days ahead, Armand and I decided to go down for a few days. To some greenery and bright sun.

Only 2 hours on the way Armand’s jaw decided to join my misery, forcing us to go all the way down to visit a dental clinic (what a couple we make…!).

So, here we are; right back to where we’ve started almost 3 weeks back; watching the planes come in and out! I must admit; it was a little mental crash for me.

Now I try to look it from the bright side; going to treat ourselves with curd, fresh bread, apple pie, coffee and some strong antibiotics we will strengthen our bodies for the coming 3 days to finally walk back and go up again. Fingers crossed it will be the magic recipe… no more time to waste!