The Hierarchy of needs…

Organizing and joining an expedition is like checking off all levels of Maslow's pyramid, although in adverse order...
It clearly all starts with 'self-actualization'; for this specific project with a very clear ambition to 'do good'. To even start thinking of that (in this case; cleaning a mountain), you should feel confident about yourself combined with that activity; climbing Everest. Otherwise forget all that extra effort! So there is the 'Esteem stair'. Then, one starts to think with whom he/she would like to undertake this challenge by creating a team ('Belonging'). The penultimate level (Safety) is getting more close to the basics (resources, unsurances, getting fit, etc) and eventually, on the mountain, it all channels back into physiological needs (do I pee enough?, Can't hardly breath!, I'm hungry!, I need to rest!). So, organizing such an event forces one to stand still and master all those stairs (mostly simultanously).
To make a long story short; this week our 'homes' for the upcoming weeks were secured. Here it works just differently than just simply enter a shop and buy some tents. For many expeditions, tents are made on order instead, or in some cases are purchased 2nd hand.

Some time ago Namgyal heard some rumour related to the last option; a set of 2nd hand high quality tents would be for sale, which was left in Kathmandu by a previous expedition. Last week we've had a look at those tents to check if the quality would be high enough to take these with us and if the model is suitable to household minimum 2 persons including ca 80kg luggage (and that they call; living from a kitbag/suitcase!).
The shop concerned was situated in one of the tiny and crowded streets in Kathmandu's Asan area (local market). Not any tourist would probably pay any attention to these kind of shops and enter one of the huge 'big name shops' (e.g. North Face, Mountain Hardwear) instead, but actually that's a pity. These kind of small shops are completely packed with many interesting gear. You'll find complete downsuits, oxygen masks and cilinders, jackets, many pairs of expedition boots, ice axes and so on, mostly 2nd hand. It's a very exciting environment, especially when you realize all this gear has (probably) already been to the place you are just heading to!

To check the tent properly it should actually be pitched somewhere, isn't it? So, that's exactly what was being done: just in the middle of the dusty market surrounded by all kinds of horning vehicles and shopping people. Not that handy; the tent contained 7 poles of 3 different lengths, so it took some time and a lot of laughter to get a proper dome shaped tent out of these poles and inner tent. Actually I got a real flash back of camping holidays during my youth; always surrounded by fighting couples while pitching their tent ;-) Unfortunately this particular tent unveiled it's previous intensive use by having a huge hole in the inner tent and this wake up call was the start of checking them all very carefully.
In no time 5 (very) eager Sherpas were ready to assist and suddenly started to sort out all outer tents, poles, inner tents, ground sealings; simultanously though.... Thank God there exists something like a marker which enabled me to finally keep the right inner tent combined with the matching outer tent again. Although I could read from their faces (and in a few weeks I might agree on that) why for God's sake it should be that important to use a bag with nr 5 holding actually tent nr 5; if THAT is going to save you high up there...! But you know, we more or less already lost eachother on that pyramid here...

Anyway, the damaged pieces were collected; holes and zippers were immediately stitched and replaced by the neighbour (sewing shop); the pieces were brought back and finally checked by us again. Sometimes this circle made some extra rounds (it's really interesting to bring a tent with a small hole to the sewer and actually get it back with 2 big holes and a broken zipper....!) . As you may imagine, it was quite a logistic party, but finally we (8 dusty faces) made it and bought the whole set of 15 tents.

For sure, after this kind of labour intensive purchase you'll appreciate your 'dome' even more while staying in the camps...!

Additional permit required for every trekker in Nepal

Per April 1st 2010, an additional permit will be required for every trekker who is visiting one of Nepal's trekking and climbing areas. For travellers who book their trek/expedition at an official trekking agency, a surplus of $10 per person will be applicable. The ones who will organize their  trip themselves will be charged $20 per person.

Since Mountain Consult is a registered Nepali agency, we will provide every of our clients with this so called 'TIMS card' (Trekkers Information Management System)

If you like to read more about this card, check the website of TAAN (Trekking Agencies Assocation of Nepal); http://www.taan.org.np/tims_taan.php

Cleaning up Mt Everest; is it any use?

For a long time, climbing expeditions have been leaving (some) used gear (tents, oxygen, wrapping materials, etc) behind on Everest or other mountains. So there are 'cleaning up expeditions' so now and then. Are these expeditions a good idea? What do you think? And what about de dead bodies? Should they be removed, too?

Like you now by now, we're involved in a major clean up expedition of Mt Everest in the next month's. It has been a huge struggle to get the government and the private sector involved. Yes, for financial reasons, but to make the right decisions and policies about this matter. We'll see how it goes, at least it's already a huge experience!

One month to go; what's going on...?

Kathmandu is heating up and so does the project planning. Only one month to go and still a lot needs to be arranged! According to the latest schedule, a group of 20 sherpas will head to Lukla at April 25th, to arrive at the BC 6 days later. All load will be dropped directly at the BC by 2 helicopters; one of the so welcome received sponsorships from the Nepali Army. Apart from making the logistics much more easy and transparant (just think of all those Kgs to be transported by porters... and how much dahl and baht that requires ;-) ), it will definately serve as a major project kick off. Imagine those circulating black hawks above the BC releasing material for 5 camps, 25 expedition members and 40 expedition days...
But that's for later; what about these days?

Namgyal and Chakra are still flattening the profile of their tires to reach as many sponsors as possible. Still half of the budget needs to be covered by sponsorships. Different parties have been reached, resulting in many positive responses. So, time to transform these promising reactions into clear Rupees!

Last week the whole sherpa group joined a 3 days rock climbing course. Just as a refreshment, since this expedition will ask for other techniques than 'routine'expeditions (can we still talk about 'routine' though, operating above 8000m???!). Guiding Western folks up and down the mountain demands for other capacities (YES, when there would be a price for patience, climbing sherpas would be nominated for sure!) than performing breath taking acrobatic moves to get every piece of garbage out crevasses, as an example.

Furthermore, material preps have been started. Sponsor T-shirts have been designed, several tailors are running their sewing machines full time to finish in time the required kit bags, down suits, sleeping bags and any other personal stuff that contains stiches. Oxygen supply has been ordered, permits are pending and insurances are covered (thanks to again a valuable sponsor).

Have you always been curious about the logistics behind a professional expedition...? Monitor this blog carefully; a lot will happen in the coming weeks...!

Mountain Consult supports Everest Cleaning Expedition 2010

Mt Everest, with 8848m, the highest mountain on the planet. A living goddess for different religions and cultures. This beautiful mountain is also known as the highest pile of garbage in the world. Now, let's say that this is a bit exaggerated, but it's true that many international mountaineering expeditions and climbers have left their used and broken gear through the years. We’re talking about tents, oxygen bottles, gas cylinders, wrapping materials, climbing rope, etc. Besides the garbage, several dead bodies still remain at different places on the mountain. The Nepalese people are aware of it, they don't like it and they feel embarrassed. With the tourism year of 2011 ahead, one experienced high altitude Sherpa decided to do something about it…

Namgyal Sherpa, the Nepalese project director, has been leading a project team of highly driven Nepalese professionals to setup this new cleaning expedition. Their goal? To clean up everything above the death zone (8000m). That's easier said than done, in fact, it’s a very difficult undertaking at a very extreme altitude. That's why they called it the Extreme Everest Expedition.

The expedition is planned in April/May/June 2010 and 20 experienced climbing Sherpa's are included. There is only one 'but'... and that's the money. Will they be able to get enough money to finance this national project? Yes, the government and private companies are already involved, but it's still a long way...

We'll be in Kathmandu and on Everest as independant reporters to write about this great Sherpa initiative. Let's see how it goes and let us know what you think!